Trailhead elevation: 5400 ft

Elevation gain: up to 2800 ft (significant loss and gain all along the trail)


Distance: 32 miles

Difficulty: moderate to strenuous

This is actually a combination of Pinnacles, Juniper Canyon, Dodson, Blue Creek, and Laguna Meadows Trails. This is a long, difficult hike, along rugged terrain and beginners would be advised not to attempt it without an experienced hiker in their group. The mileage given for this hike is 30, but we felt like it was a bit further than that, particularly along the Dodson section. Other hikers we spoke with expressed concern that the Blue Creek section was longer than the 5.5 miles advertised, but we did not feel this way as we found our logged time along that section to be in line with the 5.5-mile claim.
You will need to carry the water you need with you, as it is scarce along the trail and there is no guarantee that Juniper or Dodson Springs will be reliable. That being said we were able to find water running at Dodson Spring and there was a fair amount of tinajas in the area likely supplied by the spring. You will also need to cache water at one or both of the following spots: Juniper Canyon/Dodson junction and or Homer Wilson Ranch. Please be certain to do this and not take it for granted that either of the aforementioned springs are viable water sources.



The NPS recommends that you do not attempt this hike from early May to early October, as it would be impossible to carry enough water. They also state that you need to allow at least 3 days to complete the loop. LAV and I were able to complete the loop in just under 33 hours with 15 hours of down time at camp. We would not recommend this to most hikers as it is taxing and there is really very little reason to do it anyway. It would be far more enjoyable to spend another night along the trail. Please note that a backcountry permit is required for any overnight trip along this trail and can be obtained at the Panther Junction Visitor center.

We had driven all night after enjoying Thanksgiving with our family and arrived at the Panther Junction Visitors Center just after the 8:00 am opening. The parking lot was occupied by only one other vehicle, which I found surprising considering the Thanksgiving holiday is one of the busiest times of year at Big Bend National Park, along with Christmas and Spring Break. We were waiting to meet our hiking buddies Arc' Texan and D-Tape and I was a bit upset with myself for not getting his trucks license plate # ahead of time so LAV and I could go ahead and secure our backcountry permit. Eventually they arrived and we were able to get the info. We had printed off the backcountry permit information pdf from the Big Bend website and this saved us a bit of time in obtaining our permit from a very friendly female ranger. LAV, wisely inquired as to whether we would be able to find any water at Dodson Spring and another Ranger confirmed that we should find some there, though he was extremely hesitant to offer the information. That being said, he did confirm the source was available which was a pleasant surprise considering we had heard the rangers had a reputation for denying water sources.

After meeting Yoak and his lady Trooper in the basin (they had arrived the day before and camped just below Emory peak) we set out on the 4.2 mile Pinnacle section of the trail. This
trail starts out level but quickly begins to climb towards the Emory Peak, South Rim and Juniper Trails. Along the way you will find a fair amount of sun exposure. The trail is very well defined at points even has steps cut in that provide an easier climb for the

masses of people you will encounter along the way. Pinnacles is, arguably, the most popular trail in the entire park and it is obvious from the number of day hikers that are your companions along the way. You will continue to climb, switchback after switchback, entering into even more tree covered terrain and cooler temperatures. All along the way enjoying views of the Basin and the Lodge far below. Eventually those views are left behind and you come to the Colima Trail/South Rim Trail junction, which is clearly marked by the parks standard rust colored rectangular trail signage. The trail becomes shaded much more through here. You may find water in a small wash here. You will pass a small cabin of sorts and a corral for pack animals just before reaching a bear box and the trail junction for South Rim/Juniper Junction, again marked by the standard park sign.

You will take the 6.8 mile Juniper Canyon trail from here continue to climb for a brief period upon this section of trail before peaking out and beginning a series of switchbacks that will begin your descent toward the Juniper canyon. Along the way you will see the terrain change as you proceed through the various micro systems that make up the park including fascinating mixes of them as they intersect one another. You will continue to descend until you come to an intersection at which you must choose to either go left or right. There is a sign here that says Juniper Camp. Unfortunately there is no arrow on the sign to tell you which direction to go. You should go to the left and proceed down. Along this way, the trail at points will be less defined but do not turn back. You will find the landscape opening up and you will pass a small area that appears to be a spot for camping on your right. Continue down along the trail. The terrain will appear almost like grassland for a moment and then the desert will begin to reveal itself, adorned with cactus, stools, century plants and more. You are almost to the Juniper Canyon/Dodson Trail Junction at this point. Be certain to take in the views that are around you through here. In the canyon the views of the Basin behind you and to your right are stunning and the South Rim will slowly become exposed.

You are greeted at the Juniper Canyon/Dodson Trail Junction by the familiar sign and a desert camping spot at the end of the 4 WD road that ends at this junction. Odds are good you will see a vehicle or two at this spot and perhaps some campers, or even hikers awaiting their shuttle. You can stop here and sit on the log next to the sign and take a few minutes to eat a snack, rehydrate and rest. You should because depending on how far you have planned to go on the Dodson section that day you are about to enter the most rugged stretch of the entire loop.
The Dodson section of the trail is stated to be 10 rugged miles. We will not argue with the rugged aspect of the claim, of that there is no doubt, but we do question the mileage. In our estimation this stretch of the trail is at least 11 miles and I wouldn't be surprised if it were a bit more than that. Along this section of the trail you will encounter blazing overhead sun that seemingly reflects off the desert floor. At the beginning of the Dodson section the trail is not very well defined and you will want to keep a close eye for cairns as you pass through a series of washes, some with steep descents and ascents. Eventually the trail becomes better defined and it is easier to follow while taking in wonderful views of the South Rim and surrounding mountains. This section of trail will introduce you to the continued rhythm of rolling and rugged rise and fall. Ascending and then descending, usually only a few hundred feet at the most, but always over uneven rocky terrain that is lined by plants and weeds that reach out to the trail and that LAV appropriately stated seemingly bite back. Long pants are a necessity on this trail and we both agreed that we would not have regretted the extra weight of carrying our gaiters, as it would have been justified. The sotols and yuccas join the sagebrush, mesquite and prickly pear cactus, among other cactus varieties, to line the trail and leave reminders on your pants, boots, socks and occasionally our legs, that you are the foreigner in these parts. This will continue for the entire stretch of the Dodson and into some sections of the Blue Creek as well.
Along the way you will find a few level, clear spots to camp. We actually chose to stop early the first day and camp a bit before Dodson Springs at a nice spot that provided a view of Elephant Tusk. We were all very taken with the Tusk and LAV and I hope to return to bag it soon. Our camp experience was pleasant, with cool crisp temps at night, under a clear star filled sky.

The following day we continued on along the Dodson Trail, encountering the same rugged features as the previous day and being greeted by interesting landscapes such as ridges that rose from hillsides, and constantly watched over by our favorite sentinel, Elephant Tusk. The South Rim views would grow more spectacular and we would eventually come to the desert oasis that is Dodson Springs and fill up with a bit of the amazingly cool and clear water, while hearing noise and detecting movement in the nearby trees and brush that told us we were being watched by a far different and mysterious sentinel. From here we would push forward over numerous rises and falls till we would come to the junction of Elephant Tusk trail and Dodson and greeted by the familiar sign that told us to continue towards Blue Creek via Dodson. We continued on Dodson and took on more of the rises taking in the amazing views and panoramas of the desert mountains. The trail continued to bite at us but was a bit more forgiving at times by allowing us to follow her through a wash that possessed the greenery of oaks, pines, and junipers and provided shade and cooler temps. The terrain remained rugged as we rose out of the wash and crested a ridge that treated us to a stunning and overwhelming view of the beauty that is Big Bend and features such as Mule Ears and St. Elena Canyon in the distance. We soaked in the beauty and took a group photo and then continued forward.

This next stretch of the trail begins a descent into the lower desert floor through a serious of rocky switchbacks. Eventually these switchbacks spill you into a wash of soft scree. The remnants of what were once a creek bed. The cairns are not clear when you first come into this creek bed so make certain to follow it to the right and pay close attention and you will pick up the cairns again, some of which are very small. The trail starts its steady turn to the north-northwest and before long you will see the Homer Wilson ranch in the distance ahead of you, and your cache box where you stashed you water to your left along the hill side in the distance. The ranch is a good spot to get some shade and rehydrate after having picked up your water and have a snack or lunch. We ran into a nice couple, Paul and Jen, from Houston at this spot and exchanged pleasantries and conversation as well as discussed what they felt was inaccurate mileage along the Blue Creek Trail. I would like to take this moment to thank them again for the PowerAde.
This was not the last time we would hear someone tell us that the Blue Creek Trail was further than advertised.
After our break we continued forward along the Blue Creek Trail. As we started upon the trail a sign that in no uncertain terms told hikers not to take small children on this trail greeted us. It stated that you may encounter aggressive mountain lions and that small children are at particular risk. This stretch of Blue Creek follows cairns through a wash that is so scree and gravel filled that each step is more laborious and you get the sense that you are almost hiking on the beach through sand. Any time you hike in the backcountry of Big Bend you are aware of the fact that you are going to be watched at some point by a mountain lion. Through this area, however I was keenly aware of this fact and felt that more than just one set of eyes might be watching me. The high walls that lined the wash and the unmistakable hoodoos and green bushes and trees that accompanied them provided more shade and that in turn, of course, provided more places for a predator to lie in wait. We continued on, but by this time Arc' Texan was feeling weak and sluggish from not being able to drink much or eat anything. We took a series of breaks and used on as opportunity to repair the highly worn soles of his seasoned Asolos with duct tape in the hopes that it would keep them from acting as scoops for the gravel.
Eventually it was determined and agreed that Arc' Texan and D-Tape would stay behind and spend the night along Blue Creek, below the switchbacks, while we would continue on.

It isn't long before the canyon walls and hoodoos begin to fall behind and you enter into a section of dirt and clay based trail that zigs and zags across the wash and is cooler due to its tree cover provided by oaks and junipers. Through this stretch one needs to be careful to watch for cairns as there are a number of spots where they can be lost. You begin your stretch of switchbacks, one long one after the other, each with a significant enough grade to let you know you are gaining elevation and closing in ever so slowly uon Laguna meadows and the junction for the Basin and the South Rim. We snapped some photos and got one of the two of us together with the trail and desert we had left behind far below.


I was beginning to feel rather sluggish through this stretch and had slowed and fallen a bit behind LAV. When I came upon him waiting for me he asked if I had eaten anything recently and I answered that I had not. Then he basically said, " Hey idiot, your body is starving and your gels aren't gonna cut it. Eat!" I did. I pounded about 10 salami slices in rapid succession and was good to go. We picked up the pace and began to pass campsites. We were now constantly among the trees and hiking to the dim light of dusk. We came to the junction of Blue Creek/Basin lodge/South Rim and had a decision to make. Our original itinerary was to spend this night at a sight we had reserved on the South Rim. But with Arc' Texan and D-Tape down below we decided to head for the Basin and the car and finish the trip as one long overnighter. We pushed forwarded and really picked up the pace. The faster we moved the better, because the sun was almost down and the temp was dropping. We stopped momentarily to take a pick of the Basin below us, the lodge small but visible in the distance and then we continued on, at times literally jogging the trail.

We were keenly aware that this was high time for bears and mountain lions and we tried to make noise along the way including seeing to our MP3 players. Eventually the sun disappeared and we donned lights. LAV his Petzl headlamp and I used my Gerber mini task light. We hurriedly descended the stepped swithbacks, one after another, zigging and zagging through the darkness along the heavily traveled and beaten path, until finally the lights of the lodge came into view. As we approached the trail head I snapped a photo of LAV hiking in the dark. We finished up an sat on the sidewalk in front of the car and snacked and rehydrated.
Then we proceeded to load the car, grab some snacks and hit the road.
Time to get home.